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Apr 11, 2023

Watches and Wonders 2023: Highlights of the headlining timepieces

A highlight of novelties at the recent Watches and Wonders fair in Geneva that

A highlight of novelties at the recent Watches and Wonders fair in Geneva that stood out for their exquisite high complications, retrograde displays, all-new movements and colourful dials.

ROLEX

PERPETUAL 1908The Swiss manufacture debuts its Perpetual collection with the elegant yet contemporary Perpetual 1908. Inspired by one of Rolex's first timpieces fitted with the Perpetual rotor, the watch's name is significant as it honours the year Hans Wilsdorf registered the brand.

Offered in yellow or white gold, the refined and understated watch boasts a slim 39mm case with a domed and partly fluted bezel, as well as a transparent caseback that allows one to admire the movement and oscillating weight. The classic dial in intense white or intense black is adorned with Arabic numerals 3, 9 and 12, faceted index hour markers and a small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock. A circle just before the tip distinguishes the hour hand, while the minute hand is shaped like a two­-edged sword.

The timepiece is powered by the calibre 7140 with a 66-hour power reserve. Unveiled this year, the self-winding movement includes the Chronergy escapement, Syloxi hairspring and Paraflex shock absorbers. Its bridges are also finished with Rolex Côtes de Genève – a reinterpretation of the original decoration with a slight polished groove between each band.

The model bears the Superlative Chronometer certification like all Rolex watches, and is presented on a matte brown or black alligator leather strap with a Dualclasp, a double-folding clasp that always sits centred on the wrist.

OYSTER PERPETUAL DAY-DATE 36No one expected Rolex to deliver such a creative timepiece that invites the wearer to read the time in the most entertaining manner. Comprising a trio of cheery Day-Date 36 models presented on a President bracelet, this was one of two launches with a kooky, surprising twist.

Offered in yellow, white or Everose gold, these watches feature an arc-shaped aperture at 12 o’clock that displays a word of affirmation in place of the day of the week: Happy, Eternity, Gratitude, Peace, Faith, Love and Hope. To add to the fun, the window at 3 o’clock reveals one of 31 emojis, such as the Rolex coronet, peace sign, eight ball, unicorn and a rainbow, in place of the date.

Depicting a colourful jigsaw puzzle against a monochrome background, with shades of turquoise blue, red, fuchsia, orange, green and yellow, each piece represents one of life's key moments. Made with champlevé enamelling, the motif's vibrant hues boast striking depth and intensity.

Hours are marked by 10 baguette-cut sapphires in six different hues. There are two main dial colours – turquoise blue on the yellow and white gold versions, and orange on the Everose gold model. All three references are driven by the calibre 3255 that enables them to display a special keyword each day of the week and an individual emoji every day of the month, as well as the hours, minutes and seconds.

OYSTER PERPETUALBrimming with energy, vitality and fun is the new whimsical dial of the Oyster Perpetual. Depicting 51 black-outlined bubbles of various sizes in the vivid hues of lacquered dials unveiled in 2020 – candy pink, turquoise blue, yellow, coral red and green, this fun creation was one of the most talked about, and unexpected, novelties this year.

Aptly named Celebration, the lacquered motif is offered on the Oyster Perpetual 31 that's driven by the calibre 2232, as well as the Oyster Perpetual 36 and 41, which are both fitted with the calibre 3230.

All three references come with an Oyster bracelet. Developed at the end of the 1930s, the three-piece link bracelet is the most universal in the Oyster Perpetual range. Made of Oystersteel, the bracelet is equipped with a folding Oysterclasp and the Easylink comfort extension link. Developed by Rolex, it allows the wearer to easily adjust the bracelet length by about 5mm.

PATEK PHILIPPE

REFERENCE 6300GR-001: THE GRANDMASTER CHIMEFirst unveiled at the maison's 175th anniversary in 2014 (limited series Reference 5175), the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime made its debut in the current collection in 2016 in a white gold case with black and white dials, and was replaced in 2019 by two blue opaline dials.

One of 17 new novelties launched this year, the Genevan manufacture reinterprets its most complicated watch in a bi-colour version for the first time. Combining white and rose gold with brown opaline dials, the reversible, double-faced white gold case with a patented rotation mechanism features rose gold pushers, a crown, minute repeater slide piece and swivel links.

The 47.7mm watch is graced with two gold dials in a rich opaline brown, with a hand-guilloched Clous de Paris or hobnail pattern on the time side and finished with a hand-stitched alligator leather strap in a patinated dark chestnut. Boasting 20 complications, this is Patek Philippe's most complicated wristwatch in current production. Its striking mechanism features three gongs and five chiming modes: grande sonnerie, petite sonnerie, minute-repeater and two patented world exclusives – an alarm sounding the programmed time and a date-repeater striking the date at will. The manually wound calibre 300 GS AL 36-750 QIS FUS IRM also powers a perpetual calendar with a four-digit year display.

This impressive timepiece is accompanied by white gold cufflinks with a matching brown opaline centre adorned with a hand-guilloched hobnail pattern and rose gold Calatrava cross. It replaces the white gold Reference 6300G-010 and joins the three existing haute joaillerie versions in the collection.

REFERENCE 5924: CALATRAVA PILOT TRAVEL TIME CHRONOGRAPHLaunched in 1932, the Calatrava collection has made its mark as the archetype of timeless elegance with its hallmark sleek round case and understated air. Over the years, Patek Philippe has enriched this vast line with an array of complications to be used in everyday life, such as the Travel Time dual time zone function and the weekly calendar.

Since 2015, models in the Pilot style – inspired by Patek Philippe watches created in the 1930s for aviators – have been featured prominently in the manufacture's collections, with several versions of the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time endowed with the dual time-zone mechanism, as well as a Grand Complication equipped with a 24-hour alarm.

This year, the manufacture introduces the first chronograph model to the Calatrava line with a highly distinctive design. It houses the self-winding CH 28-520 C FUS calibre that combines three practical and user-friendly complications – a flyback chronograph with pushers at 2 and 4 o’clock, a Travel Time function (dual time zone with two central hour hands, one of which is skeletonised for home time), and a date indicated by hand in a subdial at 12 o’clock coupled with local time.

To keep a clean design for the case, the two pushers for correcting local time, typically found at 8 and 10 o’clock, have been replaced by large correctors located in the same places and activated by a dedicated stylus supplied with the timepiece.

This new 42mm model of singular originality is offered in two white gold versions: Reference 5924G-001 with a sunburst blue-gray dial and a grained navy blue calfskin strap, and Reference 5924G-010, with a lacquered khaki green dial and an olive green calfskin strap featuring a vintage finish. Both watch straps boast contrasting cream stitching, as well as a clevis prong buckle inspired by old-timer straps used by pilots to secure their emergency kit.

In addition, the dials showcase applied white gold numerals and sword-shaped hands that are highlighted by a luminescent coating for excellent legibility. A 60-minute counter at 6 o’clock complements the central chronograph hand. The new Reference 5924G-001 and 5924G-010 join the 5524G-001 and 5524R-001 in the collection, while Reference 7234G-001 and 7234R-001 were discontinued in early 2023.

JAEGER-LECOULTRE

REVERSO TRIBUTE DUOFACE TOURBILLONFor 60 years after its launch in 1931, the Reverso was a time-only watch. As its 60th year coincided with a renewed interest in mechanical watchmaking after the quartz crisis, the maison from 1990 onwards began to release exceptional Reverso models, with each one bearing a great classical complication.

One of these creations was the Reverso Tourbillon. Released in 1993, the maison harnessed the legacy of its first tourbillon movement calibre 170 that was first created for a pocket watch in 1946. Not only was it the manufacture's first wristwatch tourbillon, it was also the first one in a rectangular case and the first with a shaped movement.

Three decades on, the new 45.5mm by 27.4mm Reverso Tribute Duoface Tourbillon pays tribute to the previous watch. Powered by the calibre 847 introduced in 2018, it unites a flying tourbillon with the Duoface complication. Watchmakers had to rethink the tourbillon mechanism to reduce as much height as possible to realise the ultra-thin 3.9mm hand-wound movement.

This included dispensing with the upper bridge, replacing the outer tourbillon cage with a ball-bearing system and attaching the balance wheel to the tourbillon's centre. Without such a cage, Jaeger-LeCoultre had to invent, and has patented, a unique S-shaped balance spring. It is this shape that prevents the coils of the spring touching each other, making it perfectly concentric to the tourbillon, which is essential for precision.

The elegant front dial captures the spirit of early 1930s models with its refined, pared-down aesthetic and signature details, while the faceted hour indexes are adorned with Dauphine hands and framed by a chemin de fer minute track.

Boasting a much bolder character is the reverse dial, which is accentuated by partial skeletonisation and incredible decoration, including hand angling of the bridges. The second time zone is indicated by golden hands and indexes on a black sunray-brushed dial. Above this, the night and day indicator features a starry night sky. Gold bridges, a reminder of the 1993 Reverso Tourbillon, are textured with Clous de Paris guilloché.

REVERSO TRIBUTE CHRONOGRAPHThis new reference revisits and reinvents the groundbreaking Reverso Chronographe of 1996, one of six special Reversos developed in a decade to mark the revival of mechanical watchmaking following the quartz crisis.

Offered in both steel and pink gold, this new model is complemented by dark blue and black straps respectively. The steel version flaunts a blue-grey dial – a colour achieved by the ADL (atomic layer deposit) process, in which thin layers of titanium oxide are deposited. A deep black dial creates a noble contrast to the richness of the pink gold case.

The reverse side reveals the exquisite chronograph mechanism. A fully skeletonised dial showcases the chronograph's fascinating animation and the movement's striking complexity, while the bridges are decorated with Côtes de Genève. Enhancing the sense of visual depth, the indications for the second time display – faceted baton indexes and chemin de fer minutes track – appear to be suspended over the calibre.

Calibre 829 of the 1996 Reverso Chronograph was Jaeger-LeCoultre's first shaped chronograph movement in a rectangular case, as well as the first manually-wound integrated chronograph to be developed in the post-quartz era. The latest 49.4mm by 29.9mm creation is powered by the new calibre 860, a fully integrated hand-wound chronograph movement entirely designed, produced and assembled within the Swiss manufacture.

It is an elegant yet creative answer to housing circular chronograph timing indications within a rectangular case, while maintaining the clarity and legibility essential for this sporty complication. The result is a well-balanced, distinctive dial layout with a large chronograph seconds display in the upper dial that's complemented by a retrograde 30-minute indicator on an arc at the base.

A signature of the Reverso Tribute line, two straps with an interchangeable buckle accompany each watch. In full leather or a mix of canvas and leather, they are designed by celebrated Argentinian polo bootmaker Casa Fagliano. This partnership reconnects the Reverso to its roots in the sporting world of polo.

VACHERON CONSTANTIN

OVERSEAS MOON PHASE RETROGRADE DATEThe maison's very first sports watch with a retrograde display is also the beloved Overseas collection's first timepiece to feature the complication, which is a focal point of Vacheron Constantin's novelties this year. The model is one of four references to brandish the unique display, which dates back almost a century in the manufacture's history.

Since 2016, the Overseas collection has successfully melded performance, style and high watchmaking with a refined, sporty-chic elegance. Over the years, various iterations have made their mark with the line's characteristic six-sided bezel, in-house self-winding movements, as well as interchangeable bracelets and straps.

All of the line's distinct visual aesthetic and horological qualities can be found in the new Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date model. At the heart of a 41mm steel case beats the in-house calibre 2460 R31L/2, which combines a retrograde date and high-precision moonphase for the first time in the collection.

With complications displayed with extreme legibility, the emblematic blue lacquered dial also boasts a stunning play on light, courtesy of the sunburst satin-brushed centre and velvet-finish flange. On a retrograde date display, the indicator does not typically complete a full turn around the dial, instead it travels along the entire measurement segment or arc and then returns to its starting point to begin a new journey.

This mechanism requires great precision and rigorous discipline, particularly with regards to shock- and wear-resistance. It took several months of aesthetic research to combine a moonphase with a retrograde date within a sporty-elegant case, while ensuring optimum legibility and a perfect balance.

To achieve this complex pairing, the team seamlessly integrated the retrograde date on the upper part of the dial complete with a blue-tinted retrograde hand. Next came the task of displaying the moonphases without losing the sporty vibe of the timepiece.

This new watch is powered by the in-house self-winding calibre 2460 R31L/2 with a 40-hour power reserve. The 275-component movement can be admired through the sapphire caseback, notably the circular-grained surface of its mainplate and its 22k gold oscillating weight with a stylised compass rose recalling the themes of travel and exploration.

Its moonphases are displayed through an aperture at 6 o’clock with 0 to 29½ indicated on the arc, which allows the wearer to read off the number of days elapsed since the last new moon. Known as the age of the moon, this complication corresponds to the actual cycle of this heavenly body, which completes one full rotation around the earth in exactly 29 days, 12 hours and 45 minutes. This precision mechanism only requires a one-day correction every 122 years. All adjustments are done via the crown: winding, correction of the date and moon phases, as well as setting of the time.

The versatility of the Overseas watch allows it to be adapted for any occasion. Featuring a simple and practical strap/bracelet interchangeability system, each piece is delivered with a steel bracelet, and two other straps in calfskin leather and blue rubber.

PATRIMONY RETROGRADE DAY-DATEWhat struck us first when we first saw this elegant masterpiece was its purity of design. Distinguished by a 42.5mm platinum case framed by a salmon-coloured dial with a sunburst pattern, this limited, annual-production timepiece is a study in combining minimalism with technical excellence.

With its original combination of retrograde complications evoking the iconoclastic displays of the ’20s and ’30s, this outstanding model is an ode to the maison's grand stylistic and technical tradition. Every meticulous detail, right down to its smallest, is a chef's kiss that highlights Vacheron Constantin's exquisite aesthetic characteristics and longstanding commitment to perfection.

Beneath the 12 o’clock hour-marker sits the maison's emblem, a faceted Maltese cross in relief. Cast in pink gold, it features facets that are sand-blasted on one side and polished on the other, offering a new expression of the manufacture's symbol specific to this signature platinum case and coloured dial.

Keeping with tradition are two retrograde (day and date) indications made with blued steel hands, while the hours and minutes are displayed by white gold hands that are subtly curved – a classic ’50s style – to match the shape of the domed dial. Even the circular-grained peripheral minutes track is inspired by this era.

The Patrimony Retrograde Day-Date is equipped with the in-house self-winding calibre 2460 R31R7/3 fitted with a gold openworked oscillating weight with a design inspired by the Maltese cross. An exhibition caseback allows for collectors to admire the flawless finishing of the components, such as the hand-polished angles of the bridges.

Straight-graining, which involves perfectly smoothing the component flanks, is also done by hand, while screws are meticulously polished. The mainplate is circular-grained on both sides, while the bridges are adorned on the back with the Côtes de Genève motif.

CARTIER

CARTIER PRIVE TANK NORMALECartier Privé's seventh opus, the Tank Normale, takes its place alongside the Crash, Tank Cintrée, Tonneau, Tank Asymétrique, the Cloche, and Tank Chinoise from last year. Made in 1917 by Louis Cartier, the Tank is one of Cartier's most enduring creations and shapes that have transcended time and trends.

This year, Cartier presents a 32.6mm by 25.7mm hour/minute version that borrows its predecessor's proportions and bevelled sapphire crystal. Presented in yellow gold with a brown alligator strap and in platinum with a black alligator strap, these two models – driven by the mechanical manual-winding calibre 070 – are limited editions of 200 individually numbered pieces.

In a first for the Cartier Privé collection, the same variants are available in a platinum or yellow gold bracelet with contrasting satin and polished finishes that recall the bold and lavish ’70s. Crowd favourites at this year's fair, these two versions are limited editions of 100 individually numbered pieces.

Cartier adds one of its signature complications with a skeleton movement to the Tank's iconic shape: a 24-hour complication marked by a skeletonised sun and crescent moon. While the minute hand turns around the dial in one hour, the hour hand goes round in 24 hours instead of 12. As a result, daytime hours appear on the upper part of the dial and night-time hours materialise on the lower part. The skeletonised bridges are coated with a gradation of shades adorning both halves of the dial to represent the transition from day to night.

A limited edition of 50 numbered watches, this skeletonised Tank edition is offered in yellow gold on a brown and green alligator strap or in platinum on a burgundy and grey alligator strap. A version with a diamond-set case completes the ensemble in a limited edition of 20 numbered pieces.

Collectors can spot Tank hallmarks in the new pieces: blued hands, a cabochon on the crown and, on the simple Tank Normale, rail tracks and a secret "Cartier" signature.

SANTOS-DUMONT SKELETON MICRO-ROTORA signature of Cartier watchmaking, skeleton watches are based on the interplay of full and empty space. Highlighting the maison's creativity, these timepieces boast incredible craftmanship and style.

This year, Cartier writes a new chapter for its skeleton watch with the Santos-Dumont, which houses a brand-new micro-rotor automatic calibre developed specifically for its iconic shape. In addition to this main launch, the Cartier skeleton also sees three other interpretations: a grand complications pocket watch framed by a crystal portico and an obsidian base; a Pasha de Cartier model with grey lacquered bridges; and lastly, a Santos de Cartier timepiece paved with baguette-cut diamonds.

A major challenge taken on by the Cartier manufacture was to elevate the slim and understated square shape of the iconic Santos-Dumont watch, while staying true to the elegance of the original 1904 model. This led to the creation of the new, specially developed 9629 MC automatic skeleton calibre, which took the Cartier Manufacture at La Chaux-de- Fonds about two years to develop.

A feat of achievement, this is an aesthetic and technical tribute to Alberto Santos-Dumont – a man who always sought to aim higher. Designing over 22 flying machines and accumulating patents for various inventions, he bravely risked his life on every one of his experimental flights.

Flaunting a 31mm rose gold or steel case, visible screws, beaded crown with a blue cabochon, the Santos-Dumont that underwent a reinterpretion in 2019 now features a skeleton movement, with each structural detail paying homage to the aviator.

Imaginative, whimsical and intriguing, this 212-component movement stands out for its miniaturised functional oscillating weight in the shape of a replica of the Demoiselle, a trailblazing plane designed by the pilot in 1907. The symbol is made all the more impactful as it seems to soar over a globe.

Cartier takes sophistication up a notch with another version of the Santos-Dumont in an unexpected combination of yellow gold and navy lacquer. This limited edition of 150 individually numbered pieces is a sight to behold, as all its details, bezel and case are lacquered, including the skeleton bridges onto which the lacquer is applied delicately by hand.

Deputy Editor

Allyson Klass had her start in the publishing industry 20 years ago as a fashion stylist and writer. Over the years, she's worked in various women's and bridal magazines covering fashion, beauty and lifestyle. She's now Deputy Editor of Prestige Singapore and oversees the watches and jewellery beats. Off duty, she enjoys spending time with her family and searching for the next beach holiday destination.